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DMT Extraction (Archived Scraps)

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1502AD

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Nov 22, 2003
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Ok, now can somone tell me, say if i WERE to add white vinegar as an acid to raise the Ph level in my water and crushed grass clipings of oh lets say "Hardening Grass", how much would i be putting in an oz of grass clippings with the water in it??? just a vacinity so i wouldn't over do it..????
 
phalaris sux dont use it unless u have a garbage bag full of it and thats alot of vinagar ur gonna needta buy
 
??

what would be the best plant to extract DMT from???


What i mean to say is what would, and how much would make the Ph level around 5 in the mixture?
 
"best plant" ???
to purchase - Mimosa hostilis root bark
to grow (maybe) - Desmanthus illinoiensis (or D leptolobus)
visit dmtworld (site hosted by lycaeum) for more more more...
 
Mimosa Hostilis root bark DMT yields

What I'm looking for is people who have or who know people who have done an acid base extraction on mimosa hostilis root bark. I'd like to know what your yields were and if possible the steps you used. I've have seen the DMT percentage in mimosa hostilis root bark be listed from between .5% and 1%.
 
I wanted to hear peoples processes because I've heard that with mimosa hostilis the defatting stage can be skipped without too much reduction in the purity of the end product. Also I was wondering if anyone has ever used VM&P naptha and evaporated a dish of it alone to see if it left any residues or not.

Thanks in advance for any info you can give me.
 
Has anybody had experience with Acacia Madenii as a DMT source? After 3 failed attempts with phalaris aquatica, im moving to a better source. Maidenii is my next most available source, how good is it?
 
Acacia Madenii has a good bit of NMT (N-methyltryptamine) in it. This is not psychoactive. Unless you have a lab to do some distilling, even if you get crystals it won't be pure DMT. Go with Mimosa hostilis. It's just pure DMT.
 
If I were you, I would opt for muriatic acid (pool acid) instead of vinegar (acetic acid) and use xylene as your solvent for defatting. For the extraction, NOTHING beats methylene chloride (dichloromethane). Naptha sucks, and the over the counter shit is DEFINATELY going to leave a residue.
 
themagicmushroom said:
Has anybody had experience with Acacia Madenii as a DMT source? After 3 failed attempts with phalaris aquatica, im moving to a better source. Maidenii is my next most available source, how good is it?
Apparently Maidenii's are somewhat inconsistent in DMT levels, I've been told not to waste my time in what could well turn out to be a pointless exersize.
A mysterious gnome well versed in the arts of extracting treasure from wattles appeared the other day and told me that Acacia Obtusifolia is a much better source. They aren't as common as Maidenii's, but they aren't terribly uncommon either. They are however not often discussed in Acacia Literature. Considering there are apparently over 1000 Acacia species in Australia, this is not really all that surprising. You may have to get creative with your research though.

On another note, has anyone tried extracting from P. Viridis? I know that working with leaf material can be a bitch, chlorophyll and other nasties often cause problems that you won't see with MHRB . It has been done successfully yet there is fuck all information on this specific topic available.
General practical advice for extracting alkaloids from leaves without the benefit of a proper lab would be very helpful.
Any info at all about this would be greatly appreciated!

thanks
 
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On another note, has anyone tried extracting from P. Viridis? I know that working with leaf material can be a bitch, chlorophyll and other nasties often cause problems that you won't see with MHRB . It has been done successfully yet there is fuck all information on this specific topic available.

Extracting from viridis is about as difficult as using phalaris, maybe a little easier. There are several things you should keep in mind when extracting from viridis:
1)when shredding the material, you MUST use the freezer/blender/freezer/blender method. Freezing the material makes the water in the leaf expand and break up the cell structure, and you need to do this a couple of times (along with shredding it in the blender) as leafy material is much, much harder to pulverize than bark. You need to leave it in the acidic water a little longer than normal too, and be sure to simmer it a little to help the extraction.
2) the only acceptable defatting solvent for shit with chlorophyll is toulene or xylene. Dont forget to wash the solution with the extraction solvent (preferably DCM) at least once to get rid of the residual aromatic defatting solvent. A few defats are needed as there is a ton more lipids in leafy material than bark.
3) although I cant say for sure whether or not it actually makes a difference, having some proper lab equipment (1 l seperatory funnels, 1 l vaccume filter flask w/ buchner funnel and whatman #3 filter papers), digital ph meter (you can find them cheap, like $50) etc really makes the process a LOT easier and more efficient. Since you are working with a more difficult material, having these conveniences pays off.

I'm not sure, but I think viridis also contains 5meoDMT and other chems, so be wary of that.
 
DMT Extraction

Extracting from mimosa hostilis using VM&P naptha as the non-polar solvent how long should it take to completely dry out if a fan is left over the dish blowing down into it?
 
depends on how much solvent you use and what kind of dish (how much surface area)....i once evaped 300 ml of vm&p in a widemouth canning jar to check for residue...took abut a day and a half to dissappear with a fan...in a dish should be quicker....
 
It will take longer to dry than the solvent alone. You will notice this as the solution gets thicker.
 
Alright, thanks for the info. How long do you think I should try to dry it for before I can assume that I ended up with the thick goo that people sometimes get?
 
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