Harm Reduction type of modded vaporizer pipe

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thujone

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In other words, all cannabic vapor can be considered to require an addition of water vapor to compensate - except perhaps while using a self-moisturising butane-operated device where "clean" (soot-less) butane burning generates heat, carbon dioxyde and water vapor only...

ahhh I see now.

On another hand butane cans contain an amount of "impurities" measured in "ppm" (parts-per-million) and those substances come from deep down within the terrestrial crust where petroleum formed in a remote past. Hence the "Plan-B" tag, though with a Bi-Energy (Induction Heating) scenario owners would get to choose between dryness and invisible comet dust. Yet another possibility (for purists) might be to use 2 separate paths: 1 for a pre-heat phase using a very long transit time so the butane-related products never reach the mouthpiece, the other path being exclusively reserved for butane-free cannabis vaporisation by depending only on stored heat (after turning the front puck dim-red).

Additionally, the next method to generate water vapor is by boiling water in an auxiliary vaporizing chamber and that would take me even further into my Lava fantasy!

the issue with this is that regular steam will soak up the heat required for the element to reach the vapourization temp of THC. The only viable option seems to be superheating the steam to the requisite 250o C and that would remove the need for heating the element. At that point the process would essentially become steam distillation.

what I don't understand is why there needs to be additional water vapour added. as your image of the clear tube shows, much of the vapour condenses as the pressure/heat drops so I don't see the evidence to support the notion that adding vapour would make hits smoother. If anything, the evidence suggests that more THC is being left in transit as it binds to the added vapour which condenses quicker due to added mass.
 

Egzoset

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Salutations THuJonE,

...regular steam will soak up the heat...

Yeah, sounds familiar. This IS water after all... Yet i still do observe the benefits of inlet self-moisturization on a daily basis. At least it's always possible to replicate my FogBong! experiments.

The only viable option seems to be superheating the steam...

It may not look like it but i already demonstrated an IH induction boiler injecting water vapor into the cannabic stream. So, why not just humidify room-temperature fresh-air before it is substituted to dry air?

As a matter of fact what i'm promoting doesn't even have anything in common with this carricature:

20pddtu.jpg

Which would be nearly equivalent to vaping in a sauna...

:|

...that would remove the need for heating the element. At that point the process would essentially become steam distillation.

Hummm... More food for the mind!

Yes, this might be yet another step toward the ideal vaporizer so i hope curious minds will consider this as my quest found a satisfying conclusion of its own.

...what I don't understand is why there needs to be additional water vapour added.

It could be a matter of levels. My sensitivity being on the low side, it must be as if my radar shows a map while other radars with a higher threshold barely light up over a few tips in the topology: 2 different perspectives i would think.

So you could comment i've been exploiting personal limitations as a probing tool, to determine what's wrong and which remedy should be adopted. Cannabis dryness was my target, self-moisturization is the cure and the "1-Sip-1-Toke" ritual finallly puts icing on my cake.

=D

...much of the vapour condenses as the pressure/heat drops...

Yes, i can certainly identify transition areas after a vape session and i'm exploiting it actually. That was the 1st thing to prove: VG pipes really capture water vapor, then after that i started playing with the "Sticky"/"Moist" transition:

2zzhy0g.jpg

I believe my recent addition of a metal screen (directly on top of the teflon straw) shortened the oily section as one shoud expect...

...I don't see the evidence to support the notion that adding vapour would make hits smoother.

That's all right, there's been many others with just the same impression before. It seems i fail to communicate the purpose of those experiments, which isn't to offer a definitive solution and even less a finished ready-made product.

I can only try to share my testimony using documenting photographs. Our readers decide of the ultimate test to be made...

...more THC is being left in transit...

Indeed, that would appear accurate enough but my coughing problem had to be addressed in priority. Then i focussed on a more promissing alternative which was the pipe and today i'm 1 step closer to a "Plan-A".

Too bad cannabic vapor doesn't feel dry in the industry!
 

thujone

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well, keep doing what you do, your progress is interesting and a refined method could be a service to others.

since you mentioned humidifier.. how about a "dry" stream of herb vapour which connects to mixed with a wet stream of humidified air?
 

Egzoset

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Salutations THuJonE,

...a refined method could be a service to others.

Feedback from experiments replicated independantly might reveal where other refinements are needed but i stopped searching myself - because this turns out to be the pipe i was hoping for starting with day one! Past this point the readers simply need to discuss with VaporGenie IMHO!

=D

At the present stage this must be as good as i can make it before the next scenario kicks in, which should be the addition of its Butane-Less option through a Bi-Energy (IH) feature - and since that's an internal change of metal alloy only this photograph could as well be tagged "Egzoset's IH modded VG Pipe" (or LavaWand proof-of-concept i guess...):

2cib9j8.jpg

(My 3-Stones Twin-Shield + Deflector modded VG Pipe kit)

As suggested this prefered configuration also allows a torch-compatible mode consisting of a brief pre-heat period and hence no inhalation is even required, though that's optional and one may prefer to stretch it just enough to launch a tasty toke - beware though as a jet flame can deplete aroma/taste real fast.

My modded pipe then works by storing sufficient heat for vaporization to take place WITHOUT depending on any flame once ready, provided a trade-off is agreed over self-moisturization: this is a "purist" but "dry" mode, most unfortunately...

Using Induction Heat the "Near-Zero Impurities" butane canister itself becomes optional and such pre-heat period would set the temperature level by virtue of the Curie effect in seconds (e.g. no more fear of commet dust while avoiding combustion systematically); so that would be the sort of ultimate refinement i can imagine that is still missing!

...

In the meatime, those who experience trouble avoiding manipulation errors may want to try this trick since it compensated for my 1 mm puck which is now too thin. The screen delays formation of a hot spot long enough to extract the noble molecules without setting fire:

i2vy2w.jpg

(Loose/Floating heat-dispersive screen)

Sorry, considering i don't own any genuine VG Classic pipe anymore i can't tell how it would help with those.

...how about a "dry" stream of herb vapour which connects to... ...a wet stream of humidified air?

Thanks for providing this opportunity to correct and clarify my previous statements! :)

Well, inlet self-moisturizing is already a fact of life using the VG pipe as is. So i've experience that as i also tried to boil water on an IH plate to mix at you describe, not via the inlet stream actually. That was a confusing part and i need to clear that aspect because i don't think i'll see any electric vaporizer (not even an IH one) which is able to support moisturization in a manner identical to the pipe. So what i tested was the IH boiler concept in an outlet moisturization system instead, with a relaxed mixing method to be exact.

My LavaPit fantasy may allow both inlet AND outlet self-moisturization but it's just too soon for me to adopt a definite position. All i know is that a 1300 Watts IH plate heating a 12 cm (dia.) composite element should suffice for the task anyway!

Yet, once again i must insist this may never happen.

Here's my only source so far of a metal characterized by the Curie behavior (Tc = 250 degrees Celcius):

28us0h.jpg

(Demeyere - ControlInduc Stainless Steel Fry Pan)

To bad it costs 224 $ CAD as it would end up being cut into a 12 cm disc or even metal strips:

k130ch.jpg

15 cm (1x), 6 & 13 cm (2x)?

At least the IH side of my Bi-Energy solution doesn't appear to violate VaporGenie's "Vaporization pipe with flame filter" patent (US 7434584). As a result other persons might get a similar inspiration and bring it closer to conclusion, the original manufacturer icluded if desired.

...

Nonetheless experimenters must reject the following type of "Rocky-Foam":

2ij1e86.jpg

(Vapor-Bat "foam" stone)

This material was refurbished from a Vapor-Bat to be tested in a Snoop Dogg and this led me nowhere. Monolithic Silicon-Carbide as that in VG's Ceramic Filters has nothing in common with such crap and it didn't take long to find out!...

Good day, have fun!

4.gif
 

Egzoset

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Salutations everybody,

June 24th is a celebration day in the province of Québec and since French-Canadians originating from rural regions have a long DIY tradition i particularily feel like sharing pleasant fantasies today, which may very well announce what's coming next tomorrow (in a large sense). Most unfortunately i can't think of many boards where my contributions can be made without considerable nuisance and hence BL feels somewhat appropriate actually.

So, after years of repeated cascade failures on all visited forums i must conclude a Harm Reduction thread is the right place where to post this prior to the "St-Jean" day after all!

=D

...

My proposal is Bi-Energy in 2 scenarios:

"Plan-A" - IH pre-heating (10 ~ 30 seconds periods)
"Plan-B" - Pre-heat using a butane flame until ready

The later part has been explored previously, now i only need to find Curie-alloy strips to put in my modded VG Classic pipe and turn it into a LavaWand prototype. Next it would be great if i could tweek the pipe's tendency to emit high-pitch whistling vibrations when the core gets hot but that's work better suited for industrials i must admit.

In theory adjustable thermostatic control can be supported both by LavaWand or its LavaPit table alternative. Each of those concepts would depend on the Curie effect although the adjustment feature shall come from skipping "heat cycles" in a custom-built IH driver or simply by mixing a pair of separate heat streams maintained at different temperatures, similarily to cold and hot water in our houses...

Ready-made consumer-market IH drivers are already available, my 1300 Watts IH plate can magnetically excite a 12 cm (dia.) disc and i found IH wax tools for dentistry consuming only one fifth of the electric energy which can power small rods instead. No need to get deeply involved into electronic projects, especially if fixed-temperature regulation can meet expectations - while proper IH driver conception (combining 2 different Curie alloys) and/or just basic stream mixing should provide variable thermostatic action.

39.gif


What's nice with the custom avenue is that we'd have a "clock" reference signal available for synchonuous demodulation, so the amplitude and phase components can be sampled via signal echoes emanating individually from each corresponding Curie heater element - wirelessly.

Thermocouples, diodes, thermistances and similar sensors work through junctions and they have tin-plated copper leads, etc. Weller paved the way to a more convenient designer solution by exploiting the Curie effect in their soldering irons, decades ago, except in place of a magnestat plunger i'd simply use a pair of pick-up coils to extract temperature information reflecting temperature inside the heater elemements themselves.

One single IH coil can drive 2 separate cavities, each with its own Curie point. Consequently i figure an "intelligent" controller must be able to issue heat-cycle Skip Requests to a master "KISS" IH driver which i want to be capable to survive AI failure, by removing some "Manual Override" jumper "key", euh... More fantasies i guess!

h_in_2001_bowman_03.jpg


3.gif


Briefly put overall synergy can exceed the sum of its parts i believe and LavaWand/LavaPit are meant to integrate resources in some interlocked, fully integrated fashion. So, "B" in "Plan-B" stands for "Butane" and "Lava" means more heat reserve than one can wish for. Always with optimized compatibility in mind if that's suitable.

As an inclusive proposal self-moisturization would be supported in every possible scenario in order to garantee that no user ever gets excluded as a result of preferences and/or requirements; because there's little incentive to bother if it can't at least feel lungs-friendly in the 1st place!

105.gif


Years later after my initial posts on the subject such a miracle is still waiting to be realized, in a cannabic community with more pressing priorities...

So, the reader may wonder how this qualifies for a Harm Reduction thread and my answer is that thermostatic behavior originating from inside Curie alloys should translate as outstanding fool-proof sturdiness, dependability and reliability in an application calling for systematically intrinsic prevention of combustion if that's possible at all.

Good news, we can hope to get that choice with IH vaporisation; possibly using off-the-shelf 3rd-party IH generators found at Walmart, etc.

Good day, have fun!
103.gif
 

Egzoset

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Salutations everybody,

Well, lets put the IH thing on hook for a little while longer. This is the update i came here to post today:

NSFW:
212ztkh.jpg


xdfn8g.jpg


2im46jk.jpg

The Slick MF208 "Gun" jet-flame butane lighter should work fine with this i believe, too bad mine went defective - which prompted these changes in the 1st place, because the only available replacement was the MF222 which visibly lacks its punch, so i removed my 3rd (top-of-bowl) stone as a result (but it may need to be put back later!), then i explored pinhole conditioning à la VapMan, etc.

I'm still training in order to gain some better perspective actually!...

=D
 

Egzoset

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A few more little details which could happen to mean a lot:

NSFW:
2qavak4.jpg

I displaced the "pinhole" and got rid of a teflon straw + synthetic ring-shaped adapter. As a result there's even less airflow restriction, a gain which compensates for the presence of a cotton ball and associated metal screen beyond that wooden junction, to catch particles.

=D
 

Egzoset

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Salutations,

Doing fine so far:

se6cd4.jpg

The operating range usually matches my own needs conveniently, as a "Plan-B". Finding suitable butane lighters has been a problem though, because i like to touch before i buy (e.g. no e-Commerce)...

=D
 

Egzoset

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Salutations everybody,

Time to pop!

There's some nice sunlight rays enhancing my experience in the veranda this morning so i thought maybe i should post an update, as a few months have past.

Recently i've been revisiting the HerbalAire and got an idea:

289iyaq.jpg


This is supposed to pre-heat the sphere of my modded VaporGenie pipe...

So, does that work one would ask? :?

Well sure, it's still a learning-curve thing somewhat but i could achieve my goal without preliminaries, right at the 1st attempt. This implies i can skip manual pre-heating and i suppose that must be preferable to butane pre-heating with the tiresome operations involved. Not something so bad it would kill the habit, but obviously i've been able to verify de-facto that the pre-heating phase doesn't require butane, which is one more argument in favour of Induction Heating at least for the pre-heat task, then self-moisturizing ultimately.

Euh... Back to 2015, other than that i've been experimenting with double screen + air layer setups and found that distance to the load is a sensible factor which matters in terms of combustion accidents. There's a "Sweet Spot", as in many circumstances in life... Anyway i place a screen at the bottom of the bowl cavity where the metal walls tighten into a smaller diameter aperture. Tar-like residues collect within the metal bowl at its base, between the 2 screens for the most part. This likely affects cannabic vapor temperature before it enters the wooden chamber down below, another screen is located at the far end of the pipe's handle for that same purpose actually. This way the resinous section of my flexible tube can be kept shorter while using a cotton ball delimits this zone so that very little water droplets will condense in there it seems, which is an asset because i could "reclaim" from the cotton ball (ultimately) while optimizing the maintenance aspect.

%)

The "VapMan" style of inlet conditioning hole has given rise to some musical instrument manner of ritual, not unlike a flute. At 1st, during manual pre-heat (using butane) a finger closes that opening quite naturally, then once the heat has built up sufficiently (after a few jet bursts) it's time to open a little in order to help with unexpected dense vapor (to avoid choking on it) and after that i lift my obstruction completely to maximize the mix with fresh-air, as it promotes heat removal after a toke. Still difficult to explain, though i feel the musical illustration could be a hint: attack, sustain and decay. Hummm... I got more learning-curve to climb, lunky me this has proven to be a rewarding process so far.

:)

Height of the screen at the bottom end of my vaporizing cavity needs to be adjusted for better results. In fact i found 2 methods to limit the risk of combustion even further: 1) put some additional distance by pushing down that support screen; 2) cover vegetal load with a 3rd though gross screen made of fine wires and large cells (a lower metal mass is preferable as we want a shield, not a radiator!). In the standard situation i guess adjustments improve with practice, depending on individual skills. In the shielding scenario i'd expect other people would find that somewhat foregiving in comparison.

One last tip could be about screen swapping, it results from my 2nd option above, suggesting a symetrical system where top and bottom can be reversed freely to implement a self-cleaning bullet, essentially: when a screen is clogged just re-insert it upside-down, so the support screen becomes the shielding one and vice-versa. Intense heat won't let much residues collect but this doesn't eliminate the need to clean once in a while. Still a cleaner screen sounds like a nice feature to have.

Ah, and my "reclaim" cotton balls feel more at home in the HerbalAire device where combustion is impossible.

Time to diner!

Good day, have fun!! =D
 

Egzoset

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Salutations,

Here's one more update realizing it may not be clear what i had in mind when i mentioned "LavaWand" about 10 months ago.

First of all my perspectives evoled as i'm now reflecting on ways to merge these two things:


BL: I just bought my first vaporizer! (2015-Apr-12)

2mngmrp.jpg


On top i see an auxiliary chamber that helps with maintenance and reclaims, below the left side might correspond to an hybrid version of that "sticky" chamber with the exception there would be SiC and Curie-effect parts present in my cannabic path. I believe the capsule should stay clean as both sides being powered by an IH element it's practically impossible for resin to collect inside such a structure made of identical halves. Since there can be plenty of magnetic energy flooding the assembly it's natural to imagine its carrier can be modulated with ultrasonic waves, to implement a self-cleaning cycle for example. Audible feedback done in the same manner would seem desirable as well, all it takes is magnetized metal somewhere...

The idea of a symetric layout came after observing that i could swap screens around in my pipe to minimize maintenance work, in this case illustrated above i'm thinking the bowl should be shaken ultrasonically while pre-heated to promote deeper/faster thermalization anyway. So, that's how it ends up with an ultrasonic bullet, euh... M'well, provided the IH base station can be customized to support carrier modulation, that is. Otherwise lets drop ultrasonic features, yet that could be reserved for a "Deluxe" Lava concept i guess.

%)

The heat-exchangers must be powerful enough to handle moist pre-heated air, in addition to being compatible with torch flames - which should do it if ultrasonic cleaning has failed: e.g. torch it!!...

So far the whole system has 4 main components: 1) the IH power driver; 2) the dry-air pre-heater; 3) the distilled water boiler-evaporator; 4) a 3-mode reversible bullet (IH-driven, Butane Jet, Ultrasonic Cleanup)

The experience must remain reminescent of cigarette smoking, IH power potentially offers the punch to set everything in motion promptly and without making the same trade-offs as when building around classic technologies. Picture this: it's a 3-paths device with its top half similar to a VapBong/Vaponic with 1 closed end, the 2-parts capsule sits somewhere in the middle so i can dip the handle's end in distilled water, to recharge its tank. Then i energize my IH coil (until all Curie temperatures are reached, once the alloys became magnetically transparent), to ensure all sessions invariably begin with a same initial context, all things equal - which would amount to, say, 3 ~ 7 seconds perhaps (...), then use just like a pipe except its "fire" dies predictably and yet there's never going to be any combustion. E.G. it's aiming at a time-compressed ritual model, ignite/inhale/enjoy.

As a bonus consider the bowl shall always cool down right away, saving some of the goodies which otherwise might have been cooked in a lesser scenario.

Ah and speaking of competition i already found a slogan:

Go Bi-Energy to enjoy twice the fun!

But that's only a publicly shared concept born out of my own creative fantasies (by the way VaporGenie has nothing to do with it, so don't ask them!).

;)

In IH mode a finite amount of energy can be stored in a given mass/volume, pre-heating speed would depend on Curie temperature combined to that energy to be stored. Details like that inspire me the idea it may be somewhat challenging to hope all the pieces will fall in place and still fit together within some nice end puzzle... But i'm confident IH can do that much and i also happen to have acquired some good hands-on background on "Plan-B", the one where "B" stands for "B" as in "Butane", to be exact. At least the fire-compatibility feature seems acquired since there's only going to be metal and SiC in the path(s).

Evidently power injection using a blue flame is far from offering a stable power source, as a result there's going to be tar residues beyond the bowl if fire is put to use i suppose. On another hand "Plan-B" would grow marginal once the IH features are tuned in, butane would only prove necessary in rare situations with no electric power around. Which is what i thought a "Plan-B" was good for to begin with.

Too bad i haven't toyed with "Plan-A" so far!

In any case these images are potent enough to have a life of their own, as if the LavaWand always existed though it was only waiting to be revealed, like a sculpture under the wood...

IH technology generates heat wirelessly, no need for joints and sealing. Energy can be injected directly inside the heat-exchanger itself, which can help to minimize waste. Etc. Briefly put a designer can focus on the objectives rather than focus on what hardware is curently available and hence it's clear IH vapes face such development that shall render most others obsolete ultimately. Time will tell.

Good day, have fun!! =D
 

Egzoset

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Salutations everyone,

Time to pop!!

Pick one of those if you're lucky enough to see this:

eplixh.jpg

It's a conical metal screen that once inserted between a pair of SiC pucks in my modded VG pipe improved the situation even further.

My glass shield is no longer required actually! So here's the exact updated mounting sequence:

6gkmsg.jpg

Ritual gained in accessibility and precision, i've got a feeling there's bo looking back...

Lets also mention the bowl has moved:

245x0k2.jpg

While what used to work as a bowl now turns out to be my secondary post-vaporization chamber, e.g. where tar residues collect (between a pair of screens), which means cooling occurs even sooner (it confirms through water condensation in the flexible extension tube)... The larger thermal mass appears to render operation just sufficiently forgiving for my taste. Pre-heating has become less tedious, results feel more reliable. So i think it's quite ready for the next step, which would be to experiment IH pre-heating, ideally! As for "Plan-B", the primary safety rules remains true: never inhale in absence of a stable (clean) combustion flame since that fire's purpose is transformation of butane into relatively harmless energy + H2O + CO2, essentially. Also, no such flame can be allowed to touch anything or it will generate soot, etc.

Ritual is simple. Fill the up-side-down bowl then attach wood handle. Shake off excess water condensation from previous session if that wasn't done before, plug soft extension tube, make sure the lighter's tank was refilled (flush it once in a while, for good maintenance), euh... When ready aim for the flame catcher, inhale with moderate force at 1st so the puck turns red quickly while heat is absorbed by the conical metal filter, this doesn't take long at all. If a pair of lighters is available alternate to avoid overheat, use the weaker one once pre-heating is performed as this will help to "fine-tune", so to speak. Cannabic inhalation when successfully prepared can be dense, personally i must be careful not to choke on it though i'm confident this will resolve at some point along my learning curve. It's a 2-phase scenario for me: load cannabic vapor into upper airways then propagate it progressively. Anyway the body will adapt instinctively after a good while i guess, comfort should be gained with acquiring proper reflexes. At least a bit of discipline provides fair chances of success time after time. My range of application has become wider it seems.

Good day, have fun!! =D
 

thujone

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looks nice, but how often do you have to clean the screens? 8o
 

Egzoset

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Salutations ThujOne,

...but how often do you have to clean the screens?

Pertinent question. Often i must say, which ain't that bad on an empty-jar day, should that ever occur. The grid becomes obstructed/stickier with time, either i reverse positions with no load or it's good for alcohol soaking every 3 days or so, depending on mood... It turns out i tried to clear a sticky bottom/secondary screen (below the bowl), just this afternoon, euh... Oh i did feel the satisfying exhaust! But it may taste bitter of course. Never mind. The top grid looked cleaned but it simply required replacement. So it does get clogged in a matter of days, so much for "Plan-B"...

But, hey! It's only about "Plan-B", in "Plan-A" all IH elements would reach between 160 °C ~ 260 °C and it won't stick being so hot in there i think. IH mode offers the cleanest alternative overall, it's even supporting self-maintenance since it can be made to vibrate too, simultaneously. Too bad it's only hypothetical sofar.

Anyway don't worry so much for sticky screens. Using butane a bottom screen won't be so hot it will stay clean for long, that's true. It may sound like some annoying inconcenience though i'd point out a user may be well advised to attempt reclaiming from a collection of sticky screens after a good while, euh... 'cause i evaluated that scenario too, naturally!... It proved to be fun.

;)

Good day, have fun!! =D
 

Egzoset

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MORE UPDATE



There's some nice progress accomplished lately, using this little metal "screen" i found in Montreal a few weeks ago:

33os129.jpg

This is conical in shape, appears to be light metal - possibly aluminium. It has 17 holes drilled through it, to allow the passage of burning-hot exhaust gasses captured by a flame catcher shown next:

4iztc2.jpg

Actually this was my former personalized "core" for a "Modded VG Pipe". The new core structure ain't much different from what's being pictured below:

6gkmsg.jpg

So one could comment the UFO has replaced the TriPods!... =D

Anyway the "Front-Puck" on that photograph (lower-right corner) is 3 mm thick at this moment,thoguh my intuition suggest it should be at least 4 mm in order to become properly opaque for my goal.

I've replaced the "Top-of-Bowl" screen with a brass one thinking it must help store some more energy, obviously.

The blackened steel screen has been changed too but there would just be none at all if i could help it. %)

Actually i must try 4 mm for the Front-Puck while the Top-of-Bowl probably needs to be 3 mm thick, still wrapped by a brass screen serving both for thermal mass and mechanical support. Which i find convenient as i recall the VG sphere didn't retain my pucks too well once these started to show degradation signs resulting into premature erosion, because of successive experimental manipulations, etc.

My setup will look more like this the next time i get a chance to implement it appropriately:

2d0l2sy.jpg

The thicker SiC disc i call "puck" that is shown down under was 5 mm thick back in those days, as i recall.

That may be too much but i'd insist anyone attempting to replicate my results will be better advised not to use anything thinner than 4 mm for a Front-Puck, the reason being it's opaque beyond such thickness and i figured that's a desirable feature when intense radiative heat causes issues...

Ah, and speaking of issues...

x2pfmh.jpg

This is an improved replacement for my previous aluminium shield/radiator + glass deflector structure, in "Plan-A" mode no metals are expected to reach temperatures above the designer Curie point selected for implementation. Since i don't even have one bit of scrap Curie alloy to begin with this is only theoretical so far. Yet, i'm convinced i must explore such alternative(s) some day, or just let time work for me by waiting after the market to apply "intelligent" metal principles, etc.

3038vmt.jpg

In any case the "UFO" (conical "screen"/filter, whatever thing) with 17 heat-exchanging conduits once wrapped into a brass screen fits this size conveniently. Now lets take a look at the genuine Classic setup:

jj21ar.jpg

It's just 1 thick (~7.5 mm) puck with little seating support at its base preventing a fall. This design fails after erosion kicks in, eventually. So here's a double-function fix:

30wry2o.jpg

Warp it into a metal screen, i prefered to choose brass instead of stainless steel (the image above is from my previous experiment). But then i found radiative heat was still a problem so i added 1 layer of air then another screen made of stainless steel. Not convinced it was sufficient i finally added yet another stainless steel screen, so we got in the end a Top-of-Bowl 2 mm SiC puck (which should be 3 mm thick instead) that is wrapped by brass screening then covered with 2 stainless steel screens and some air layer in between every single item of those. Using a 3 mm Top-of-Bowl SiC disc i suppose i'd be able to drop 1 stainless steel screen, maybe both hopefully. Perhaps the brass screen simply needs to be thicker/heavier, similarily to my present 2 mm...

I'm no longer making any sense, am i?? ;)

2rfc085.jpg

Ah, now this is an illustration meant to inspire visualisation of the LavaWand concept.

Notice the Arizer Solo Glass Stem has its Glass Bowl covered by metal. Imagine this metal were hot enough to heat up the load inside that glass bowl, beyond its glass wall... Because radiative heat passes through glass practically at the speed of light, i figure. This opens the door to quick pre-heating without any contact with metals since the IH element is kept outside our lungs path. Not a bad thing IMO... So, with instant pre-heating required it seems Induction Heat technology imposes itself ultimately, because it's powerfull and quick while when combined to the Curie effect it becomes possible to get rid of complex temperature monitoring/control and whatnot: just inject magnetic excitation into the flux concentrator circling a Bi-Energy compatible capsule where the core turns into a radiator closely coupled to a 17 holes heat-exchanger radiating heat towards the SiC Pucks while convection heat is also supplied, which eventually reaches a pre-heated load into the cannabic bowl...

But that's a dry scenario and i wish no Lava scenario ever excludes anyone, starting with me! So that means in absence of clean butane burning i'd need to rely on a drop-by-drop boiler/evaporator to enrich hot dry air with water vapor, so the releasing/transport agent become more potent than simply dry air alone. Because water vapor absorbs a lot of energy, so i guess that what's makes my butane-operated pipe so distinct nothing else will work.

So, below it's a Top-of-Bowl combo made of the brass screen and corresponding SiC puck. 2 mm is an absolute minimum i believe, try 3 mm 1st instead!

vfa7x4.jpg

Here it's where the Cannabic Load resides, between its Top-of-Bowl brass (+optional air-layer/screen) on top and metal bowl below.

i2vy2w.jpg

(Loose/Floating heat-dispersive screen)

M'well, to be exact this specific image shows how to shield the vegetal load which is located under it. It seems some metals are particularily efficient at dispersing heat, which limits the occurance of hot-spots and hence potentially combustion fumes, etc...

And it reminds me...

9zn8n9.jpg

(Wenzhou Menghu Lighter Co. MF208)

Those lighters are convenient though their limited tank capacity requires me to keep them filled to capacity in order to obtain predictable operation.

...

Induction Heat would eliminate the need for butane burning during the pre-heat phase. Only customers requiring Inlet Self-Conditioning, etc., will need to decide if it's OKay or not to inhale while burning butane. Personally i'd advise to never ever inhale in absence of a stable flame, it's this very mater conversion which transforms butane gas into reaction by-products which obviously affect the vaporization process in a definitive manner. Consequently it's also of Paramount importance that the flame can't touch anything at any time, if it does be quick to stop what's you're doing and try better again. Climbing the learning curve requires determination and patience but the goal is to appreciate cannabis with a tool not unlike a musical instrument, as a result of its analog/organic dimension i would comment, euh... At least i know i'm depening on water vapor in my inlet path and only butane-burning will provide that to me. Forget anything electric-dry, it's not going to be of any use to me anymore. Not even as an auxiliary pre-conditioner or something.

Now what's it all about?

Visualize some Unidentified Filter Object (UFO)... It's structured as the UFO previously mentioned, with heat-exchanging channels and a defocussing mass that also stores diverted energy, etc. The object's size and weight don't change significantly over time, which implies that since they stop absorbing alternating magnetic energy beyond their characteristic designer Curie-temperature these IH elements implement thermostatic behaviour at the point of contact. Theoretically...

So?... M'well, finite mass corresponds to finite energy absorbtion/storage i suppose, e.g. this implements the means for precise dosage and i believe if there's a factor which may have hurt much too many people in past decades it was probably the lack of control over dosage, translating as an impossibility to explore alternate consumption rituals possibly more beneficial to the end user... I'm thinkink about ~100 mg bowls of dry shreaded cannabis herb. I've got a hint that's still plenty to choke on it if not properly delivered.

With IH pre-heating the pipe which supports my "Plan-B" scenario will offer guys like me an element that is truly required. One feature without which just a couple inhalations suffice to render the next minutes miserable and even beyond. What can i say, i don't tolerate such dryness anymore and i tried hard to compensate, but only inlet H2O potentialization appears to promise a final solution. Because it's energy-dense i think and also self-moisturizing, from the inlet side please! The IH element's mass being what's determining the maximal thermal "charge" (as its Curie point is reached) we get a quick/efficient way to inject energy packets of replicable capacity... I expect in a micro-dosage application such convenient characteristic has an edge by allowing finer user-control. For those concerned with their tolerance level this feature might prove decisive! Not to mention it would render the whole concept socially-acceptable since it's clearly aiming for "Harm-Reduction" since IH pre-heating effectively reduces exposure to anything that might/would/could come from butane burning. The vaporist purists should appreciate that, and if they don't then they can start asking for "bio" butane! Euh... But a Lava vape also needs to be affordable and that's how i came to think the experiments wouldn't rely on a better existing products than VaporGenie's concept, because i can't think of a better way to value SiC structures. It's simply perfect for the task and even versatile enough to render Bi-Energy possible. Yet it's pattented so the reader who's interested to explore this subject by himself needs to assume voiding VG's waranty on a pipe that got personalized so extensively i figure! With that said i'm confident the proud VG pipe owners who'd dare give it a try will notice a gain, except perhaps those with lungs of steel. That's only "Plan-B" but it gives a hint what's ahead.

The ritual with easy/efficient pre-heating can be changed from sustained effort to self-entertainment. It's what's missing, IH pre-heating for a potent pipe!

And now that i've adjusted its core to extend the range of application so i can gain access to it my intuition says the body will be happy to acquire a few last skills that i need to master for suitable operation of a LavaWand, ideally.

=D

Time to go. Good day, have fun!! =D
 
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Egzoset

Bluelighter
Joined
Feb 23, 2013
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Location
Quebec (Canada)
Salutations,

The situation continues to improve. Yesterday in my veranda there was no glass of water or any other drink nearby, throughout the whole day...

=D
 
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